About ormus wet method

Hi every one,

As mentioned in my introduction, I am fairly mew to the concept of Ormus and maybe I'm not even on the right forum, since I see topics about ormus and m-state that seem to be of another order then the wet method where salt water and lye are mixed to ph 10.78 to get a precipitate in which some m-state metals are formed or collected (don't know which actually).

Any way, I am enthusiast about the subject and want to learn more about it. Much more.

I made some batches of ormus with celtic seas salt to start with and today I tried to make ormus from dead sea salt.
Looking back, I might have read the instructions to make it with dead sea salt the wrong way since it first stated to mix 4 cups of water with 1 cup of salt, then followed by: dead sea salts yield 1/8 cup per Gallon.
Well, I mixed 1 cup of dead sea salt with 4 cups of water and this gave a unexpected reaction with the lye.
Immediately when I started to add the lye, flakes of white precipitate where forming (unexpected) and I had top add about 3 cups of lye before I reached ph 10.7, which is far more then with the celtic sea salt solution (about 1/3 cup lye).

So I guess, I read the directions wrong and should have mixed 1/8 cup of dead sea salt with 1 gallon of water.

Being inexperienced with making ormus and chimistry/alchemy (at least this life time ) I wonder if the precipitate that I am making this way will still produce good ormus, as in... consumption grade.

Further, I read something about the method that is used on this forum which is preferred because this doesn't create toxic side products. Is that a reference to the wet method that I use?
Does that produce toxic side products?

Thanks for your time,

SG

hello and good day Sungazer..

first wonderful that u have joined the forum

now for you questions,

what the ormus community is calling ormus is actualy more of a miniral mix then a real elixir,

they say all the minirals that precipitate are ormus elements, and this is simpely not true. only about 10-20 procent of the stuff is actual m-state, the rest is Magnesium hydroxide, and other trace minirals as calcium, with is not bad but is not what u want ether..

so you will have to do some more work then just getting the ph up to 11,

the best way if using lye u will need to bring the ph down again with some vinigar or hcl, this must be done slowly over the cource of a day or 2, then start adding lye again. now stop at a ph of 8.5. again this MUST be done slowly, use a less concentrated lye solution then before,

the white stuff that is formed is the mstate u want, this is allot les then before at ph 11 but this is good as it is now more concentrated,

let this sit for some time "2 weeks" in a closed vessle, on some low heated water bath, after that u boil the solution for 2 hours, then u can wash the precipitate 9x with water, this will give u a strong elixir, be carfull with the dose. start with using drops and not spoons full  

on the toxic part,
lye on its own is not a very nice chemical, and u would not want this chemical in raw form in the body, as it would destroy skin/cells.
if used in the correct way as described above, you will not have any problems with it,

my own method that i developt with the use of sodium bicarbonate, is less toxic in that sens... as u can eat the chemical with no problems.

this process will take longer but will yeild a better/purer elixir,  

good luck!!

With Love

Hi Panoramix,

Thank you for taking the time to answer my  questions.
I realize that my knowledge about ormus and the methods to make it is very limited.
Hopefully, I am allowed to ask some questions here that will enable me to get a better understanding about how to make it and why some procedures are preferred or necessary.

For instance:
From the point of view of ingesting the M-state materials...  is it necessary to eliminate the caliumhydroxide and magnesiumhydroxide? I figured that since they both aren't toxic in such amounts and I don't have the equipment or base material to do the other refinements yet, I might as well settle for the impure precipitate for now and ingest that.
From the point of view of researching the m-state material I can understand why one should refine the solution to pure m-state.
Could you provide arguments why I shouldn't proceed as described above?


About the lye:
Currently, I wash the precipitate five times. I  let it settle to about 1/8th of the total volume and get rid of the water to add 7 new parts of water. If I do this five times, the lye that was still in the solution after the reaction with the magnesium and calcium is now diluted to 0,003 % of the original lye that was left... correct? So if I add 10 grams of solid natriumhydroxide to the salt water and after five times washing, at best there could be only be 0,0003 grams of natriumhydroxide left, even if most of it wasn't lost by the reaction to calcium and magnesium.
I have no idea how much lye is left after the reaction, but I can imagine that if I ingest one teaspoon of the precipitate (after five times washing) per day, that it won't do any harm in my body, or am I off the mark here?
This is an important question for me for safety considerations. It's difficult to find info about the ingestion of lye in these tiny amounts and how it might effect a person.

I have a ton of question actually and most of them will have to be dealt with in patience and with lots of studying and experimenting.

one last question:   Would it be possible to make the start ormus precipitate with baking soda instead of lye?
Where can I read your method?

kind regards.

ps: after reading your post again, I realize that some of my questions are already or partially answered by what you wrote, so in a sense I seem to debate what you wrote.
Maybe not the best way to start on a forum huh?   lol

found your baking soda method.

Cool!

hello there,

well it would be a good plan to get rid of the magnesium and calcium, this becouse: the mstate materials will tent to hide in the crystal structure of the magnesium and calcium, this will in the sens couse a bad absorbtion by the body, so to speek, the magnesium and calcium need to be broken down by the body before the mstate can be used in the body,

so if u have like 20 procent of mstate in the material you will have the problem that prob only like 2 procent is take up by the body and the rest will not do allot, see it like eating a whole seed, this will pass right true you and will not be absorbed, in the sens this does the same, only the magnesium and calcium are absorbed in the body but are not broken down enough.. so that the mstate will not be freed, and used.

a other thing that is very inportent, is that there are so to speek a solid mstate and a liquid mstate, "one is the white powder the other a oil"

you can see the powder as a body and the oil as a soul so to speek, and as u know a body is dead without its soul...
this is way u let it sit for so lang in a hot water bath, and do a boil afterwords, this is to fix this oil to the powder,
there are more and better ways of doing this but this is the most simple one

on the lye, when u add sodium hydroxide to the salt water solution some things are happening, for the sake of simplisity lets say that we have a solution of magnesium chloride and water,

chemicly you write this as MgCl + H2O
now what happens when u add the lye "NaOH"
this is what happens

MgCl + NaOH = MgOH(s) + NaCl

so in the sens there will be no lye left in the solution, so to speek you have a displacment reaction, the Cl and the OH are swaped,

way you want to wash this so many times is to get the NaCl "common table salt" out

so if u dont add to match of the lye, whitch wil not happen if u do dont take the ph above the 10.xx

the salt in the solution is not something u want, this is btw the compleet reverse of what the ormus comunity is cleaming. thay say add salt.

for some studdy on how and what i have a saction on the forum, i would sugest u go and read some of the books that are on the forum, and some of the videos are very usefull as well..

With Love...

Ps u can ask any question u like, this is a place of learning
as i my self am doing as well ...

Panoramix wrote:

the best way if using lye u will need to bring the ph down again with some vinigar or hcl, this must be done slowly over the cource of a day or 2, then start adding lye again. now stop at a ph of 8.5. again this MUST be done slowly, use a less concentrated lye solution then before,

Hi Panoramix,

I had a question regarding bringing down and afterwards raising the ph of the solution.
Why does it have to be done so slowly and what is the best way to do it?
I mean... do I have to ad a drop every 30 minutes or do you ad several spoons every 5-6 hours?

I read somewhere that you bring the ph down to 4 before raising it again to 8,5... is that correct?

thanks in advance!

Quote :

let this sit for some time "2 weeks" in a closed vessle, on some low heated water bath, after that u boil the solution for 2 hours, then u can wash the precipitate 9x with water, this will give u a strong elixir, be carfull with the dose. start with using drops and not spoons full

What temperature is considered low heated?

ola there

well it hes to be done slow so that u will slowly break down the Mg and Ca and so allowing the the good stuff to precipitate out without being locked in the crystal lattice of the Mg or Ca.

in this case slow is like if u have a solution drop in the lye solution in a way that u will have completed the job in about 1 1/2 to 2 hours time,

adding hcl or vinegar must be done slow as well do this over the course of a hour.

and what is moderate heat well there are 2 forms of heat one is a water bath the other a sand bath, the water bath is about 43c and the sand bath is about 95-100c
in this case we use a water bath . so on a temperature of 43c you will be fine.

kind regards, Panoramix

Thanks Panoramix.

For a bath to remain at a constant temperature of 43 Celsius, I figure that I need some precious device no?  a temperature meter and...  something to regulate the temperature with.. What do you use?

hay!!

well i use a coffee pot warmer for it, i bought one for like 2 euros
from a second hand shop,
i modified the thermostat to have 2 temperatures one for solving one for coagulation. just added some sand so that it get heated equally, but you can do it without the thermostat as well, you just have to see how match sand u have to add to keep it on the right temperature..

kind regards....